Harvesting Notes:

As the season progresses and we get closer to harvest we will begin to sample the grapes for their sugar content. This testing follows a random cluster sampling method that guarantees accurate results. Using our own Gator and stainless steel crusher we gather whole clusters by the lug to remove the lower sugar inner berry bias.

We begin to send our results to all that have signed up for grapes for the current harvest season. Watching the weather and knowing the progress of ripening from previous years we can begin to get an idea of when the optimum sugars will occur. But, as those who have been with us for several years know, last minute cooldowns or heat waves cause new emails to be sent.

When just the right timeframe is discovered, we email everyone so that we can schedule visits with little overlap. You can decide to pick the grapes yourselves (save $0.10/lb) or have us pick them for you. Most decide to have us pick them as it takes a LONG time to pick the grapes yourselves! For those taking uncrushed grapes, it does help to have your container in advance for us to pick into.

IT IS IMPORTANT FOR SOME VARIETIES THAT WE NOT START PICKING UNTIL 10 AM - so please understand that that is why I do not schedule pickups early in the morning!

IF YOU WISH TO CRUSH THE GRAPES HERE, we will HELP you NOT crush them for you.

We do have a forklift available to forklift brutes carefully into the back of station wagons and SUV's and also forklift macrobins into the back of trucks.

Please be prepared to cover the crushed must as we will be adding SO2 here to protect the must on the way home.

FOOD GRADE RUBBERMAID BRUTES CAN BE PICKED up at the BEVERAGE PEOPLE IN SANTA ROSA - use this LINK to jump to their 2009 Wine Catalog!

HOW MUCH DOES A BRUTE HOLD?

You must allow for expansion during fermentation of at least 25% of the volume of your fermentation vessel. Ballpark estimate: FOR EVERY 100 lbs of crushed grapes you will need about 11 gallons of brute space:

PRESS YIELD RULE OF THUMB:

For every 100 lbs. of must, you will need 7 gallons of secondary storage. (for future reference!)

 

ADDITIVES:

SO2: Pristine grapes require little SO2 (30-40 ppm) but SOME is always required to reduce the indigenous population of native microflora and is added IMMEDIATELY. Grapes in poor condition (NOT a good place to start) do require a larger addition. I happily use Efferbaktol powder with easily allows me to adjust the SO2. ADDED IMMEDIATELY AFTER CRUSHING.

WATER: This is a difficult issue. The current trend of long hang times to facilitate the best flavors possible does, sometimes, result in high Brix juices. Our target Brix range is 24.5 - 26.5 (target alcohol 13.5 -14.5%) but mother nature sometimes provides too much heat just as the grapes are ready to harvest. Adding a measured amount of water if your Brix is higher than 27.5 might be necessary. IMPORTANT!! DO NOT MAKE ANY WATER ADDITIONS UNTIL 24 HOURS AFTER CRUSHING AND MIXING SEVERAL TIMES. SPLIT THE ADDITION IN HALF AND ONLY ADD THE FIRST PORTION - WAIT ANOTHER 24 HOURS AND TEST AGAIN!!!

ENZYMES: Enzymes are used to help release color and flavor compounds held in the skins. These compounds are solubilized into the new wine through the action of heat and increasing alcohol. Because we are dealing with very small quantities of fruit that do not produce the excessive heat produced in wineries that require jacketed and cooled tanks we help the extraction process along with a product that breaks the cell walls. Lallzyme EX has proven to be extremely beneficial. CAN BE ADDED IMMEDIATELY OR WHEN GRAPES ARRIVE HOME BUT WITHIN 8 HOURS OF CRUSHING - NOTHING IS GAINED BY WAITING!

NUTRIENTS: Must (crushed grapes) have a wide range of available bionutrients - knowing the must nutrient profile of the vineyard is essential. We ALWAYS ad a complex nitrogen containing product at the beginning of fermentation (our current favorite is Fermaid-K but there are other products available) and supplement at the middle of fermentation with DAP (diammonium phosphate). CAN BE ADDED IMMEDIATELY OR WHEN GRAPES ARRIVE HOME BUT WITHIN 8 HOURS OF CRUSHING - NOTHING IS GAINED BY WAITING!

SEE WINEMAKING FOR MORE INFO FROM THIS POINT ONWARD!

Beginning the winemaking process:

Crushing the grapes

Once picked, the grapes need to be processed according to their winegrape type. White grapes like Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc or Viognier require processing while cool to preserve their fresh fruitiness. In fact, keeping all white juices and fermenting wines cool (if not cold) is the name of the white wine game. White grapes are not normally fermented with their skins (may benefit some varieties but is unusual) - the juice is pressed from the crushed (or not, if you have a whole cluster press!) and cooled quickly. Please be prepared to ferment this juice in a cooled location as white wines retain the best of their delicate flavors and aromas with cool fermentations. Unfortunately, I cannot help you with pressing white grapes!

CrusherRed grapes, like Cabernet, Merlot, Malbec, Petite verdot and Zinfandel are crushed and fermented with their skins so that the flavor and aroma compounds are captured from their skins. They are normally fermented with (or "on") their skins at warmer temperatures so that these compounds are quickly expressed.

Interestingly, there are two interesting processes that you might use in your red wine processing.

COLD SOAK is a method of keeping the must cold (by refrigeration or use of dry ice) for 24-48 hours to allow for the early extraction of important compounds from the skins. These is some controversy regarding how well this works. Even in the industry, there are some who swear by it and some who swear at it. It may be valuable for some varieties and less valuable for others. DOES IT HURT? Only if you can't keep the must cold enough. Even with the SO2 addition you may encourage mold growth with this technique if you go beyond 48 hours. So use care.

EXTENDED SKIN CONTACT (beyond the end of the yeast fermentation when the must is "dry" or the sugar is completely fermented) is used to wring out all the flavoring compounds in the skins as well as encourage the formation of long chain tannins to fast forward that aspect of ageing. DOES IT WORK? Again, it probably depends on the variety. You have to be vigilant and restrict oxygen access or run the risk of encouraging VA. Wineries have an easier time as they can just close their tanks enough to allow the entrained CO2 to slowly come out of the wine and provide protection in a semi-closed scenario - they can also gas a tank to prevent oxygen contact.

TEMPERATURE OF FERMENTATION: The most basic rule is don't let your fermentation cap temperature (the skins in red fermentations that rise to the top and then need to be punched down!) get over 95 F. This is the point that yeast die and, although, you might not see this happen immediately, as the wine temperature under the cap will be less than 95, you risk killing enough yeast to make the hard end-of-fermentation fermentation slow or stop. YET, you must keep the temperature warm enough to allow for good extraction, which happens over 85 F! A garage will not be consistently warm enough UNLESS you do something to keep the temperature consistently warmer (think germination tray electric pad warming units). This is NOT true for white fermentations which you need to keep as cool as possible, either through refrigeration of the juice or constant, judicious helpings of dry ice.

PUNCHING DOWN: Just about anything works but think sanitary and use something that can be washed and sanitized. Beverage People has a great stainless steel punchdown device that works well but other suppliers probably have devised something too!